Winding-Down: May 23, 2024

Ming Brings Back The Dive Watch With The 37.09 'Bluefin'

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Mark Kauzlarich for Hodinkee:

Will this be a practical diver for people that actually dive frequently? Probably not. I'm curious to get my hands on one and feel if the internal rotating dial clicks are substantial and not prone to bumps unlike many inner rotating bezels, but the quick legibility of the indices seems like it might be a problem – something you don't want to worry about if you're nervous about your oxygen supply or time left underwater. But that's probably okay – I still need to pick up a dive computer anyway.

This sums up my concerns for an otherwise beautiful watch. The article also covers the unique design language of Ming that make them almost as immediately recognizable as say... an iPhone. While tweaks and changes are made with every new release, they are always unabashedly Ming. I love that about them.


Ulysse Nardin Drops Two New Diver Watches

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Adrienne Faurote at Haute Time:

The Diver Net OPS is heralded as the most sustainable sports watch with a manufacture movement available today. Water-resistant up to 300 meters, this high-performance timepiece is powered by the automatic caliber UN-118, which features a 60-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring—a cutting-edge material first introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001. The escapement is coated in DiamonSil, a patented diamond-coated silicon that ensures exceptional precision and durability.

I love it when a company pushes the envelope with sustainability in mind. Oris has been tackling ocean conservation for years, and even CW got onboard with the #Tide straps paired with several of their releases.

This Ulysse Nardin looks dope! The bezel has a unique marbling to it, the dial is textured, it manages to display a power reserve indicator in a classy way, has a small seconds complication, and a date window. That's a lot to pack into a dial and still have it turn out on the aesthetically pleasing end of the spectrum. The only thing I am not a fan of here - and this is entirely subjective - is the "X" displayed prominently on the dial. For me, even if I had the money to seek this out, the "X" would be a deal breaker. Womp womp.


Hands-on The New Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer is a Classic Monochrome Diver

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Brice Goulard for Monochrome:

The BB58 and BB54 are retro-inspired takes on the dive watch, while the BB now seems to be positioned as the classic, contemporary version – the brand’s Submariner, in a way.

This feels accurate to me. The new BB feels like a classic approach to a dive watch - one that ages well and is devoid of features that would date it to any particular era. It's clean, simple, and highly legible. The comparison between the Tudor BB and the Rolex Submariner are inevitable and, with this release, it feels like Tudor is taking a page out of the Rolex handbook now more than ever. Hopefully we don't see Tudor push into Rolex pricing territory as a result.

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Jamie Larson
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